Network Testing

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Revision as of 11:29, 24 April 2009 by Elizabeth (talk | contribs) (added instructions to switch the cable if the activity light doesn't come on)
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Overview

Welcome to Network Testing. This is an area in Advanced Testing

Network Testing works more-or-less like this:

  1. Incoming. Everything comes in, unsorted, and goes on the middle shelf of the rack or on the ground nearby.
  2. Sorting. We look at Network Switch Testing to find out what is instantly recyclable and create a recyclables box somewhere if we don't want it. Otherwise, if it's something we want, find the AC adapter for it. If we can't it gets recycled. If we can, pair it with its AC adapter put it in a bag and put it on the Sorted shelves (2).
  3. We test sorted devices from the Sorted shelf and if they're good, we write up a "Tested OK" sticker, stick it to the device, include the AC adapter, and put it in the Store box (3).
  4. Big weird devices go on the Other shelf (4).

The network device testing station currently consists of a computer with a nic that can handle gigabit Ethernet and wireless g. This computer also has a serial port and software that can talk thought it.

Testing kit (yellow tub)

The yellow tub contains three things that might come in handy for you. Please keep it assembled and free of other things:

  1. An ethernet cable (green).
  2. A crossover ethernet cable (red).
  3. A generic power cable (black).
  4. A paperclip.

AC Adapters

If the power adapter is not with the device look at the voltage and amperage on the back of the device. If the information is not there you can look it up online by entering the brand and model. For Lynksys routers, hubs, switches and signal boosters visit FG Vancouver's page Power Adapters]

  • The ~5V and ~12V adapters are in the red trays.
  • The ~6V and ~7V adapters are in crates below the table.
  • Belkin, D-Link and Linksys branded adapters each have their own crate below the table.
  • Extra 12V, 1.2A adapters we save in a crate below the table to go to the Store.
  • When all the crates are full, we recycle the excess in the yellow tub to the left of the table.

Testing a switch

  1. Verify that the network device is not to be immediately recycled, by consulting the list below
  2. Connect power to the switch, and verify it starts up (some advanced switches may take up to a minute to start up)
  3. Look for a reset button and if there is one reset it.
  4. Connect the network cable that has the internet on it to the wan or uplink port.
  5. Verify that the link lights illuminate on the switch for the appropriate ports.
  6. Plug in the network cable from the computer to the router.
  7. Check that the corresponding activity light comes on the corresponding connector. If it doesn't light up, try switching the cable.
  8. On the PC surf the internet by clicking on two pages. This should not feel slow.
  9. Do this on every port by moving the network cable that connects to the computer.
  10. Check the wifi by connecting to it and serf the net.
  11. If the network device has a way to login, try to.
  12. If it works, label it, "Tested by" and initial in the blank.

Testing a Wireless Router

All working wireless routers and access point go to the store. Information to write on a sticker for the store:

  • Is it tested?
  • How do you log into it (ex. write IP address)?
  • What is the username and password to log on?
  • Attach a “tested by” sticker with your initials on it?

Process use this process along with its Wireless router flowchart

  1. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
  2. Locate a wireless router or access point from the network incoming boxes. They almost always have antenna connections on the back. If they are missing antenna, find one and in your area and attach it.
  3. If the power adapter is attached, great, skip to step 5. If not, you must find one that will work. You need to match the necessary volts and amperes ('output' on the adapter) to the needs of the device. Sometimes this is listed on the device , sometimes not. If not, search the internet for the information you need.
  4. Find an adapter from the supplied boxes that fits the device both in power output and in connection size. Extra points if you locate the same brand, but it is not necessary (and often impossible).
  5. Connect the power adapter to the device and then plug in the adapter.
  6. Check to make sure things seem to be in working order. Does the device have lights on the top or front? Do they light up? Are they overly bright (too much power)? Do you smell something like burning plastic (again, too much power). If things seem amiss, go to Troubleshooting A.
  7. If the device seems to be operating, press and hold the reset button on the back. You will probably need a small tool like a paper clip. Hold in this button for 30 seconds...this resets the factory settings.
  8. Once reset, plug in the Ethernet cable labeled internet into the port on the back of the device labled 'internet' or 'LAN'.
  9. Wait a few moments while the device sets itself up. In a moment you should have the option of accessing the internet wirelessly through the device. By left clicking on the network connection tool on the upper right of the screen you should see a list of available wireless connections. If none show up, right click on the same tool and make sure there is a check by 'Enable Wireless'. When you see the list of available networks, you are looking for a generic one that corresponds to your device. 'Linksys', 'Netgear', 'D-link', and 'Default' are common ones. Click on this network and wait for the connection to complete.
  10. When connected, the icon should change from two computers to a set of blue and white signal bars. You are now connected to the internet. You should be able to search Google with little to no wait time. If not, go to Troubleshooting B.
  11. Once the Internet is up and running, try to log into the device. This is most usually done by entering the IP address of the device in the internet browser address bar. They almost always follow the format of 192.168.X.X. Search the internet for the “default IP” of the device you are working with.
  12. When you enter the correct IP address to a functioning device, you will be brought to the settings page(s) of the device, often first prompted to enter a username and password. These are almost always combinations of 'admin' and/or left blank. If this does not work, go to Troubleshooting C.
  13. Once you have successfully used the device to access the internet and logged into the device settings page, then the device is deemed working and ready for sale.
  14. Unplug the internet Ethernet cable from the device. Unplug the power adapter from the outlet and wrap its cord in a fashion akin to the sorted power adapters. Reattach the power adapter to the device. Write the information needed on a sticker (IP address that you used to log on, correct username and password), attach the sticker to the top of the device, and attach a 'tested by' sticker with your initials on it. Once all the information is attached to the device, bind the adapter to it with shrink wrap plastic in a simple non-messy fashion (probably the hardest part).
  15. Put the device in the 4Store box. It worked! Great Job.
  16. Repeat with a new device

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting A: The device does not work with the power adapter. Either...(a)there is not enough power being supplied and the device does not function at all, or (b)there is too much power being supplied and the device is freaking out or even lightly incinerating itself. If (a) is the case, search for a more appropriate power supply. You may have settled on the incorrect type the first time. It may also be the case that the device simply does not work. After a certain point you may decide this latter scenario is the case and you will need to recycle the device (but not the adapter). If (b) is the case, you again may need to find a more suitable power supply. The main difference here is that because of the power surplus, the device may have been irreparably damaged. Use your judgment after trying a different power supply. You may have to recycle the device.

Troubleshooting B: There are many possible reasons why you are not able to connect to the internet properly. Here are some scenarios:

  • If no wireless network is displayed (besides 'freegeek'), the device may be non-functional or may need a different type of power adapter. You may also just need to wait longer for the network to register. Sometimes it helps to right-click this network tool and first disable then re-enable wireless networking. Be patient.
  • If there is a new network, but it has a strange name or is encrypted so that you cannot log into it, you may not have pressed in the reset button on the back of the device for a long enough period. Try again.
  • If it takes forever to log onto the internet through the device and the internet is extremely slow, then try logging into the device through the IP address (Step 11). There may be some setting that is holding up the flow. Or the device may just be sub-prime. If no fix is obvious, it may be recycle time, especially if the device is not wireless 'g' or 'n'.
  • The device just may not work. But give a good effort at resurrection before you decide this.

Troubleshooting C: If there is no prompt for a password to log into the device but you get sent straight to the settings page, no problem. Just make a note of this fact on the sticker (ex. No Password). If there is a prompt, try generic attempts like 'admin', or try leaving one or both blank. Also, this information is often supplied on the internet for the 'defaults' of the devices. If nothing works, there may still be a username and password in use from the previous client. You will need to close windows and try to reset the device again. Make sure to press the reset button for at least 30 seconds. Afterwards be patient.

Recycle Criteria

Devices to go to the store "As-is" if they power on ok.
  • Wireless-G Access Points, for example the Linksys WAP54G
Devices to be recycled without testing
  • DSL and cable modems (and DSL filters, phone cables, etc, if the store already has a few)
  • DSL and cable modems with built in hub, 'internet router', or wireless
  • 10BaseT hubs
  • Cheap-looking little no-name-brand hubs if they are piling up at the testing station
  • Cheap-looking little no-name-brand hubs if a matching power adapter can't be quickly found
  • Devices with noisy or bad fans, or that appear physically damaged
Devices to leave for advanced testing
  • Consumer-grade internet routers (with WAN ethernet port, not with DSL or Cable ports)
  • Consumer-grade wireless access points and wireless routers
  • Managed 10/100 switches with a console port that do not seem to pass testing
  • Professional-looking rack mount routers, firewalls, and other network devices

Preparing the device for the store

  1. Plug its AC adapter into the device and make sure they won't be separated. (Maybe use a rubber band)
  2. Put it it the clear plastic Store bin on the shelves.
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