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− | ==Overview== | + | [https://docs.google.com/a/freegeek.org/document/d/18qtFldf_eVio-NgtqCmeG6ySnwfWS17ZBXYce4E8ZVo/edit?usp=sharing New Page] |
| + | {|fontsize="12" cellpadding=".5" border=".05" font-weight="bold" cellpadding=".7" |
| + | |- |
| + | |width="25%" align="center"|STEPS |
| + | |width="75%" align="center"|NOTES AND DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS |
| + | |- |
| + | |Determine what kind of Network Device it is || |
| + | ;There are several kinds of network devices. |
| + | * Hubs |
| + | ** A hub is a device that provides multiple ethernet ports for plugging in multiple wired devices into a network. From a technical standpoint, hubs are fairly simple: they take information that is received over one port and sends it back out over all the other ports. In order to work properly, a hub typically requires the existence of a device that manages and directs traffic somewhere on the network it is plugged into in order to work properly. |
| + | * Switches |
| + | ** A switch is essentially a hub that can better handle more information passing through it. Like a hub, a switch needs a device that manages traffic on a network in order to work properly. |
| + | * Routers |
| + | ** A router is a small computer, typically with a built-in network switch, that manages and directs traffic. A router can assign IP addresses to computers, pass their requests for information from computers to a gateway, and redirect incoming information from a gateway to a specific computer. A router itself is typically the central component of a home network. |
| + | * Gateways |
| + | ** A gateway is a device that allows you to connect networking devices to the Internet. Gateways typically only allow one connection for a network device, but newer ones have built-in routers and switches. Some may also create wireless networks. A cable or DSL Modem is a type of gateway. |
| + | |- |
| + | |Determine if the Thrift Store wants it || |
| + | ;Check the Whiteboard. |
| + | * In an open Firefox browser, click where the toolbar says "Whiteboard." You can also find it here: [[Whiteboard]]. This will tell you what the store does and does not want on that day. Recycle anything that they do not want. |
| + | ;Things we don't test: |
| + | * Firewall/VPN devices |
| + | ;Recycle anything not needed by the store, and any of the above items which we do not test. |
| + | |- |
| + | |Pair the Network Device with Power Supply|| |
| + | Somewhere on the device it should give the required voltage and amperage. Once you find a matching power supply that fits, plug in the power supply and place both the device and power supply into the blue bin for network devices to be tested. |
| + | |- |
| + | |Check for Damage|| |
| + | If it's missing parts or visibly broken, recycle it. If there's dirt or grime wipe it down with a rag and some cleaning solution. |
| + | |- |
| + | |Check for Power On|| |
| + | Grab a networking device and its attached power supply from the blue tub. Plug the device into a power source. |
| + | * If there are power lights, make sure they come on. |
| + | * If there is a reset button, press it for ~30 seconds to restore default settings. |
| + | |- |
| + | |Test Networking|| |
| + | * Connect the blue Ethernet cable attached to the computer to one port and the gray Ethernet cable labeled Das Unternet (yellow tag) into another port on the switch. |
| + | ** For more information on Das Unternet troubleshooting, go to: [[Network Testing Network (Das Unternet)]] |
| + | * Open FireFox and click the Drydock icon on the far left of the bookmarks bar at the top. If the connection is good, you will see a page that says It Works! You might need to disable wireless connect for the test to work(Uncheck Enable Wireless). |
| + | * Test the remaining ports the same way. Make sure to do this systematically so you know all ports have been tested at the end. |
| + | * If the one or two highest-numbered Ethernet ports don't work, they're most likely designed to be used to connect to another device in the network. |
| + | ;If it is a wireless router: |
| + | * Go to [[Wireless Router Testing]] |
| + | |- |
| + | |Final Preparation || |
| + | *Affix a "Tested By" sticker with your initials on the device. |
| + | *Place in the "Store" box. |
| + | * If it is the last device you're testing for the day, please clean up the testing station, putting away tools, cables and everything else. |
| + | |- |
| + | |} |
| | | |
− | Welcome to Network Testing. This is an area in [[Advanced Testing]]
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− | Network Testing works more-or-less like this:
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− | # Incoming. Everything comes in, unsorted, and goes on the middle shelf of the rack or on the ground nearby.
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− | # Sorting. We look at [[Network Switch Testing]] to find out what is instantly recyclable and create a recyclables box somewhere if we don't want it. Otherwise, if it's something we want, find the AC adapter for it. If we can't it gets recycled. If we can, pair it with its AC adapter and put it on the Sorted shelves (2).
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− | # We test sorted devices from the Sorted shelf and, if they're good, we write up a "Tested OK" sticker, stick it to the device, include the AC adapter, and put it in the Store box (3).
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− | The network device testing station currently consists of:
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− | * One computer (the '''server''') that serves out IP addresses and hosts a web page
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− | * One computer (the '''client''') with a NIC that can handle gigabit Ethernet and wireless g. This computer has a serial port and software that can talk thought it. The browser on this computer is configured to not use cache, as to facilitate the testing process.
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− | '''REMEMBER:''' do NOT connect network devices to Free Geek's wired network; depending on their configuration, network devices can expose our network to security vulnerabilities or cripple our infrastructure. The '''server''' should act as the source of Internet for all testing purposes.
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− | ==AC Adapters==
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− | If the power adapter is not with the device look at the voltage and amperage on the back of the device. If the information is not there you can look it up online by entering the brand and model. For Lynksys routers, hubs, switches and signal boosters visit FG Vancouver's page [http://wiki.freegeekvancouver.org/article/Power_Adapters Power Adapters]]
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− |
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− | ==Testing a switch and router==
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− | # Verify that the network device is not to be immediately recycled, by consulting the list below
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− | # Connect power to the switch, and verify it starts up (some advanced switches may take up to a minute to start up)
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− | # Look for a reset button and if there is one reset it.
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− | # Connect the network cable that has the internet on it to the wan or uplink port.
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− | # Verify that the link lights illuminate on the switch for the appropriate ports.
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− | # Plug in the network cable from the computer to the router.
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− | # Check that the corresponding activity light comes on the corresponding connector. If it doesn't light up, try switching the cable.
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− | # On the PC surf the internet by clicking on two pages. This should not feel slow.
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− | # Do this on every port by moving the network cable that connects to the computer.
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− | # Check the wifi by connecting to it and serf the net.
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− | # If the network device has a way to login, try to.
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− | # If it works, label it, "Tested by" and initial in the blank.
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− | ==Testing a Wireless Router==
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− | All working wireless routers go to the store. Information to write on a sticker for the store:
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− | *Is it tested?
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− | *How do you log into it (ex. write IP address)?
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− | *What is the username and password to log on?
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− | *Attach a “tested by” sticker with your initials on it?
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− |
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− | '''Process''' use this process along with its [[Wireless router flowchart]]
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− | # Don't be afraid to ask questions.
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− | # Locate a wireless router or access point from the network incoming boxes. They almost always have antenna connections on the back. If they are missing antenna, find one and in your area and attach it.
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− | # If the power adapter is attached, great, skip to step 5. If not, you must find one that will work. You need to match the necessary volts and amperes ('output' on the adapter) to the needs of the device. Sometimes this is listed on the device , sometimes not. If not, search the internet for the information you need.
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− | # Find an adapter from the supplied boxes that fits the device both in power output and in connection size. Extra points if you locate the same brand, but it is not necessary (and often impossible).
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− | # Connect the power adapter to the device and then plug in the adapter.
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− | # Check to make sure things seem to be in working order. Does the device have lights on the top or front? Do they light up? Are they overly bright (too much power)? Do you smell something like burning plastic (again, too much power). If things seem amiss, go to '''Troubleshooting A'''.
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− | # If the device seems to be operating, press and hold the reset button on the back. You will probably need a small tool like a paper clip. Hold in this button for 30 seconds...this resets the factory settings.
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− | # Once reset, plug in the Ethernet cable labeled internet into the port on the back of the device labled 'internet' or 'LAN'.
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− | # Wait a few moments while the device sets itself up. In a moment you should have the option of accessing the internet wirelessly through the device. By left clicking on the network connection tool on the upper right of the screen you should see a list of available wireless connections. If none show up, right click on the same tool and make sure there is a check by 'Enable Wireless'. When you see the list of available networks, you are looking for a generic one that corresponds to your device. 'Linksys', 'Netgear', 'D-link', and 'Default' are common ones. Click on this network and wait for the connection to complete.
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− | # When connected, the icon should change from two computers to a set of blue and white signal bars. You are now connected to the internet. You should be able to search Google with little to no wait time. If not, go to '''Troubleshooting B'''.
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− | # Once the Internet is up and running, try to log into the device. This is most usually done by entering the IP address of the device in the internet browser address bar. They almost always follow the format of 192.168.X.X. Search the internet for the “default IP” of the device you are working with.
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− | # When you enter the correct IP address to a functioning device, you will be brought to the settings page(s) of the device, often first prompted to enter a username and password. These are almost always combinations of 'admin' and/or left blank. If this does not work, go to '''Troubleshooting C'''.
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− | # Once you have successfully used the device to access the internet and logged into the device settings page, then the device is deemed working and ready for sale.
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− | # Unplug the internet Ethernet cable from the device. Unplug the power adapter from the outlet and wrap its cord in a fashion akin to the sorted power adapters. Reattach the power adapter to the device. Write the information needed on a sticker (IP address that you used to log on, correct username and password), attach the sticker to the top of the device, and attach a 'tested by' sticker with your initials on it. Once all the information is attached to the device, bind the adapter to it with shrink wrap plastic in a simple non-messy fashion (probably the hardest part).
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− | # Put the device in the 4Store box. It worked! Great Job.
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− | # Repeat with a new device
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− | ===Troubleshooting===
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− | '''Troubleshooting A:''' The device does not work with the power adapter. Either...(a)there is not enough power being supplied and the device does not function at all, or (b)there is too much power being supplied and the device is freaking out or even lightly incinerating itself. If (a) is the case, search for a more appropriate power supply. You may have settled on the incorrect type the first time. It may also be the case that the device simply does not work. After a certain point you may decide this latter scenario is the case and you will need to recycle the device (but not the adapter). If (b) is the case, you again may need to find a more suitable power supply. The main difference here is that because of the power surplus, the device may have been irreparably damaged. Use your judgment after trying a different power supply. You may have to recycle the device.
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− | '''Troubleshooting B:''' There are many possible reasons why you are not able to connect to the internet properly. Here are some scenarios:
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− | *If no wireless network is displayed (besides 'freegeek'), the device may be non-functional or may need a different type of power adapter. You may also just need to wait longer for the network to register. Sometimes it helps to right-click this network tool and first disable then re-enable wireless networking. Be patient.
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− | *If there is a new network, but it has a strange name or is encrypted so that you cannot log into it, you may not have pressed in the reset button on the back of the device for a long enough period. Try again.
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− | *If it takes forever to log onto the internet through the device and the internet is extremely slow, then try logging into the device through the IP address (Step 11). There may be some setting that is holding up the flow. Or the device may just be sub-prime. If no fix is obvious, it may be recycle time, especially if the device is not wireless 'g' or 'n'.
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− | *The device just may not work. But give a good effort at resurrection before you decide this.
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− | '''Troubleshooting C:''' If there is no prompt for a password to log into the device but you get sent straight to the settings page, no problem. Just make a note of this fact on the sticker (ex. No Password). If there is a prompt, try generic attempts like 'admin', or try leaving one or both blank. Also, this information is often supplied on the internet for the 'defaults' of the devices. If nothing works, there may still be a username and password in use from the previous client. You will need to close windows and try to reset the device again. Make sure to press the reset button for at least 30 seconds. Afterwards be patient.
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− | == Recycle Criteria ==
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− | ;Devices to go to the store "As-is" if they power on ok.
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− | * Wireless-G Access Points, for example the Linksys WAP54G
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− | * Print servers.
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− | ;Devices to be recycled without testing
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− | * DSL and cable modems (and DSL filters, phone cables, etc, if the store already has a few)
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− | * DSL and cable modems with built in hub, 'internet router', or wireless
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− | * 10BaseT and all hubs
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− | * Old cheap-looking little no-name-brand routers.
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− | * Devices with noisy or bad fans, or that appear physically damaged.
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− | ;Devices to leave for advanced testing
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− | * Consumer-grade internet routers (with WAN ethernet port, not with DSL or Cable ports).
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− | * Consumer-grade wireless access points and wireless routers.
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− | * Managed 10/100 switches with a console port that do not seem to pass testing.
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− | * Professional-looking rack mount routers, firewalls, and other network devices.
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− | ==Preparing the device for the store==
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− | # Plug its AC adapter into the device and make sure they won't be separated. (Maybe use a rubber band)
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− | # Put it it the clear plastic Store bin on the shelves.
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| [[Category: Howto]] | | [[Category: Howto]] |
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− | [[Category:Advanced Testing]] | + | [[Category:Hardware Testing]] |